计时作为一种复杂功能,可以测量和显示连续或非连续的时间跨度,且不会影响腕表的常规走时显示。中央计时指针可随意启动、停止和重新启动,然后通过激活一个或多个按钮将其归零。计时码表在技术实现上极其复杂,五分之一秒的计时精准度需要多年的研发才能掌握!
The desire to measure and segment time predates watchmaking itself. Yet the invention of the chronograph, as we know it today, is the result of centuries of ingenuity and mechanical evolution. The mechanical chronograph emerged from the scientific and industrial revolutions of the 19th century, reflecting modern society’s growing reliance on precise time measurement.
The ability to accurately display elapsed time introduced the idea of performance, making the chronograph an essential complication across various domains, from scientific and military to cultural settings, including sports such as horse racing. The first modern chronograph (1862) featured three functions: start, stop, and zero resetting. In 1875, the two founders of Audemars Piguet immediately adopted this new feature for their pocket watches, which paved the way for the brand’s rich legacy of innovative chronograph wristwatches.
计时功能
THE COMPLICATION OF PRECISION AND PERFORMANCE
Audemars Piguet introduced its first chronograph wristwatches in the 1930s. Produced in extremely limited numbers – with just 307 pieces before 1980 – these timepieces are among the rarest in the world. At the time, each watch crafted by the Manufacture was a unique creation, with the concept of standardised models only introduced in the 1950s.
CALIBRE 8100, A NEW CHRONOGRAPH ENERGY
Entirely reimagined to meet our clients’ expectations, the RD#5 brings together all the hallmarks of a refined chronograph: a world-first in the touch-sensitive push-pieces, an instantaneous jump minute counter, remarkable thinness, and meticulously designed ergonomics and legibility.
Giulio Papi
Director of Watchmaking Design, Audemars Piguet
双追针计时功能
双追针计时码表在中央计时秒针的基础上配备额外的一根计时秒针,可以在计时过程中随意停止或重新启动,以测量分段时间,或保存参考时间数值。在启动计时后,两根计时指针同步启动,追针秒针可随时停止以计算分段时长,而中央秒针则继续走动,只要按下特定按钮,追针秒针就会瞬间追上中央秒针并与之同步。
飞返计时功能
具有飞返功能的计时码表可以让佩戴者在无需先按下停止按钮的情况下,便可使计时秒针瞬间归零并重新启动。
全新腕表面世
发现爱彼自主研发具有飞返功能的最新一代Calibre 4401计时机芯的制作。爱彼所有机芯都是制表师、工程师和工艺师通力合作、完美融合专业知识与尖端技术的结晶。
自1875年以来,爱彼的目标始终不变:充分利用两大领域的最佳优势,制作出创新时计,并予以精致手工润饰和组装。
圈速计时功能
2010年,迈克尔·舒马赫向爱彼发出挑战邀约:创造一款能够连续进行圈速计时的机械腕表,而无需在每圈结束时重新启动计时功能。而在这之前,只有数字显示的石英机芯圈速计时腕表。五年后,爱彼发布具有飞返功能的圈速计时码表,配备两枚中央计时秒针,通过三个按钮独立操作。
此专利功能装置配以三导柱轮机构。 其中一个导柱轮位于6点位置,负责控制计时功能,另外两个导柱轮位于12点位置,用于控制复杂的圈速计时功能。
深入了解 不同时计
深入了解大复杂功能
AP Talks特邀嘉宾Austen Chu共叙钟表复杂功能
我们很高兴邀请到Wristcheck与Horoloupe的创始人暨首席执行官奥斯汀·褚(Austen Chu)以及爱彼复杂功能专家Thomas Richard做客第三集AP Talks播客节目,深入探索品牌最为复杂的时计杰作。两位嘉宾将共同揭晓Royal Oak皇家橡树系列、Royal Oak Offshore皇家橡树离岸型、Royal Oak Concept皇家橡树概念系列以及爱彼CODE 11.59系列等复杂时计背后不为人知的故事。赶快与我们一同深入复杂功能时计的迷人世界吧!
探索更多内容AP Talks畅谈爱彼CODE 11.59系列Universelle腕表
在本期“AP talks”播客节目中,Sébastian Vivas、Raphaël Balestra、Lucas Raggi、Giulio Papi和Anne-Gaëlle Quinet将分享这款超卓复杂功能腕表的制作过程,揭秘复杂功能、精密制表及微型化工艺的奥秘,展现超越高级制表极限的非凡之作。
探索更多内容AP Talks畅谈报时机制
完美的报时音律,离不开制表师的非凡匠心与精准技艺。让我们跟随爱彼研发总监Lucas Raggi和爱彼品牌传承及博物馆总监塞Sébastian Vivas的讲述,揭开报时复杂功能的神秘面纱。
探索更多内容革新性人体工学设计 Calibre 7138机芯演绎非凡
爱彼在秉承悠久传承与过往研发创新的基础上,将目光投向未来,以人体工学设计重释万年历机械装置。
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